Closed Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State park and the incredible drive down FM 170 to get there

A young, in-shape guy, came through the Rio Grande Village (RGV) store while we were working at Big Bend National Park and mentioned his hike through Closed Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park.  He said the slot canyon was amazing, the hike was great and we should definitely do it, and then he mentioned that he'd gone too far into the canyon, going over a rock formation that was too slick to climb out of, and he was not able to get back out. He said that to get back to civilization he had to continue down the canyon to the Rio Grande and hike another 7 miles until he found another canyon that he could climb out of.  Well, we got excited just hearing 'slot canyon' and not much else really made any sense, until we faced a similar choice in a place similar to what he talked about.

When we got there we found an unexpectedly beautiful place to explore.

We decided to make the drive through Terlingua and on to the State Park's eastern visitors center, Barton Warnock Visitors Center, near Lajitas.  This was really the only way to get to the state park from Big Bend, and we'd been wanting to visit Barton Warnock since we'd heard how great it was.

This was still a long drive for a hike. From the southeastern part of Big Bend, it would be an hour and a half drive just to get to the visitors center.  Then we'd have 20 miles to go down FM 170 to get to the canyon.

Google map from RGV to Barton Warnock Visitors Center

Another reason to make the trip was FM 170 or River Road, one of the most scenic and unknown drives in America.  We often talk to Big Bend visitors about 170 out of Terlingua as a way to see an almost entirely unknown, and therefore, unexplored part of West Texas; an incredible drive above and through the canyons created by the Rio Grande over millions of years, River Road is undoubtedly one of the most if not the most scenic drives in North America (Texas Monthly and National Geographic agree).

Barton Warnock Visitors Center

So, we began at Barton Warnock asking questions about Closed Canyon.  By the time we got there, mid-afternoon, it was about 105 degrees (it was August!). The folks there were very helpful, providing all the details we needed.  As it turned out, they said Closed Canyon was a relatively easy hike and we'd get some shade because of the high walls and narrow slot canyon.  The Ranger mentioned not hiking too far in and paying attention to what you climbed over, under or through.  Many formations and boulders were not easy to climb when coming back; so he said we would not be getting to the Rio Grande River on the hike.

And I got to buy a state park T-shirt and support Texas State Parks!!

Closed Canyon trailhead marker

The parks trailhead marker sign provided much-needed safety information everyone should take in before hiking the trail and mentions being aware of drop-offs that become 'too great to safely negotiate'.  Point taken!

Heading into Closed Canyon

The hike began in the dry creek bed leading in.  We began to realize it was much cooler and windier in the canyon.  The air began to travel faster and cooled as it was compressed, forced through the slot.

The path curved to the left as you enter the high-walled slot canyon. Small creek rock and black dirt covered a hard but smooth canyon floor. 

The canyon was rather wide as we started with variations in the color and texture of the rock, smoother on the lower parts of the walls and rougher up higher where the water had not affected it as much.  

Looking into the canyon as we walked you could see how the water traveled through it, smothing it over millions of years, carrying sand and rock with it.  

With cliffs and caves above us, the slot canyon began to narrow, becoming even more smooth-walled along the way; large boulders were exposed as the canyon narrowed. 

Each left and right we took through the canyon gave us a new view around the corner with something unexpected and different ahead.  

We began to do more boulder climbing to continue on through the narrowing slot. 

Eventually, the flat ground disappeared, and all we had was boulders to climb to continue the hike.

At about .87 mile, we came to a drop-off of about 12 feet that we could tell we'd not be able to climb out of on the way back.  

We both tried and could have gotten past the standing water tinaja but getting back up the rock seemed like 'too great to safely negotiate'.  

With the smoothed rock walls and about 8 feet apart, we would not have been able to push against both walls, like a bridge, hands on one side, feet on the other, to get across both ways.  This is a technique we've seen (on youtube) to get past the point where we had to stop at Ernst Tinaja!! 

It was tempting to consider just dropping into the water and continuing the hike, but climbing up and out would have been very difficult or impossible for both of us.  We do need to practice 'bridging' for next time!! 

So we hiked out, happy as clams that we got as far as we did! 

Here's my short video of the hike out

 

On the way back, we spent some time exploring and taking photos of FM 170.  

Here's a panorama photo taken from Fandango Dome Rock, a high point on the road, looking toward Presidio.  

And another looking toward Big Bend National Park with the Rio Grande's green path in the lower right.  

Here are our related posts!

Kayaking in Big Bend Ranch State Park, passing below Fandango Dome Rock.

Hiking into Ernst Tinaja, were we got stuck at the big hanging rock.

And here are our all our videos and photos from this hike in our Google Photo Album.

Meeting new friends, accidentally

My former High School band director, Mr. Banda, had been urging me to meet another one of his students that lives near Big Bend National park in Terlingua, Tx. while we're here.  Melissa is a school teacher there.  Mr. Banda sent several messages, to both of us and in 5 months we had not managed to meet up in Big Bend NP or Terlingua.

So each time I'm driving through Terlingua or shopping there, I have not called or messaged her and I feel bad about it but just go on thinking she'll not have the time to just meet us at the store or a restaurant. It's always an impromptu visit.  That day we had traveled through Terlingua to Lajita, then to the state park.  And the same thoughts had run through my mind.

Starlight Theater Bar

So, after hiking Closed Cayon in the Big Bend Ranch State Park we went to Starlight theater for dinner.  We walk up to the bar and, strangely, there were 2 spots next to each other so we sit down, order drinks and chips (it's happy hour) and start to relax.  There is a woman sitting next to us drinking her water and she looks familiar, but I'm not sure why.  So, I guess that she might be the Melissa that Mr. Banda had mentioned multiple times.  Hey, we're in a tiny ghost town so..

Automatically, I'm going to Facebook, trying to look at common friends with Banda while she and I have a casual conversation about our hike in the state park.  She talks about Terlingua and why she's there.  I'm not quite to the common friends yet when she mentions she's a teacher there and, I say 'do you know a Mr. Banda?'

Accidental friends

Well, of course, she did; we laughed at the coincidence and the many times we had both thought about the other while passing through.  Anyway, it was great to finally meet Melissa, and now we can let Mr. Banda know we've met, thanks to his generous prodding!

Kayaking in Big Bend Ranch State Park

One of the perks we have working for the concessionaire here at Big Bend National Park is that they offer freebies.  Some of these are agreements with local companies that provide services in or near the National park including kayaking, jeep tours and hotel stays in Lajitas Tx.  The idea being that if we have a great experience with them, we'll be better able to discuss their services with our customers.

Lupe had been calling one of our favorite companies, Far Flung outfitters in Terlingua, for several months trying to find an open spot for the two of us on a kayaking trip.  Based on the time of year, half-day, full-day, and multi-day Rio Grande kayaking trips are available through Boquillas, Mariscal, Santa Elena Canyons in the National Park, from La Linda north of Big Bend into the park and in Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Far Flung's map showing their kayaking tours

This time of year, July, the trips are exclusively in the state park due to the low water level on the Rio Grande.  As a matter of fact, we found out from our guide that ALL the water in the Rio Grande in Texas right now is coming from Mexico's Rio Conchos.  And that no actual Rio Grande water will be flowing past dams north of El Paso due to 'large agribusinesses in Colorado sucking it all up.. don't buy from Walmart' until October or so.  So the Rio Grande river is actually dry from El Paso to the confluence with Rio Conchos, just North of Presidio.

Rio Grande Dams and Diversions by Kmusser
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=21959793

Our guide also thanked Mexico in his talk saying animals in Big Bend National Park are surviving the summers ONLY because of the good graces of Mexico and its Rio Conchos water, which Mexico could use, divert or dam if they chose.

Map of our kayak trip

Anyway, on to our kayaking trip!  We signed our Risk Agreement, had a brief safety talk, boarded the 17-person van and pulled away from Far Fung heading to the State Park. After picking up a family at Lajitas, we arrived at La Cuesta (meaning slope), which was our starting point, excited and ready to get wet.  The trip would take us through Madera Canyon, and we'd get out at the river access past the canyon, with two rapids along the way!

Our guide took some time explaining kayaking safety, proper paddling (use your shoulders), handling rapids and how to deal with getting pushed into the side of the river wall (lean into the wall), among other other things to keep in your head when on the water.  The information was important and relevant to the moment; for example, if you get thirsty on the river your already dehydrated.  Drinks lots of water and stop anywhere on the river for a potty break.

So off we went as each person was helped (if needed) into their kayak.. remembering to sit down in the kayak and don't attempt to stand in the kayak when getting in!

And from there it was a peaceful and pleasant trip down the Rio Grande.  Along the way, the guide would stop and discuss relevant topics including the impact of different river levels, the level markings on the canyon walls and the shape of the river bank and how these are all tied to the flow (or lack of it) of the river.

Midway, we stopped and were treated to light snacks, giving us all a chance to meet our fellow kayakers and guides.

And then we headed into Madera (Monilla) canyon.

Here's my video of the trip. We truly enjoyed the few hours on the Rio Grande Far Flung gave us.  It was a great trip.

Thanks, Far Flung!!

Here's our Google photo Album with all photos and videos from the trip.