Closed Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State park and the incredible drive down FM 170 to get there

A young, in-shape guy, came through the Rio Grande Village (RGV) store while we were working at Big Bend National Park and mentioned his hike through Closed Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park.  He said the slot canyon was amazing, the hike was great and we should definitely do it, and then he mentioned that he'd gone too far into the canyon, going over a rock formation that was too slick to climb out of, and he was not able to get back out. He said that to get back to civilization he had to continue down the canyon to the Rio Grande and hike another 7 miles until he found another canyon that he could climb out of.  Well, we got excited just hearing 'slot canyon' and not much else really made any sense, until we faced a similar choice in a place similar to what he talked about.

When we got there we found an unexpectedly beautiful place to explore.

We decided to make the drive through Terlingua and on to the State Park's eastern visitors center, Barton Warnock Visitors Center, near Lajitas.  This was really the only way to get to the state park from Big Bend, and we'd been wanting to visit Barton Warnock since we'd heard how great it was.

This was still a long drive for a hike. From the southeastern part of Big Bend, it would be an hour and a half drive just to get to the visitors center.  Then we'd have 20 miles to go down FM 170 to get to the canyon.

Google map from RGV to Barton Warnock Visitors Center

Another reason to make the trip was FM 170 or River Road, one of the most scenic and unknown drives in America.  We often talk to Big Bend visitors about 170 out of Terlingua as a way to see an almost entirely unknown, and therefore, unexplored part of West Texas; an incredible drive above and through the canyons created by the Rio Grande over millions of years, River Road is undoubtedly one of the most if not the most scenic drives in North America (Texas Monthly and National Geographic agree).

Barton Warnock Visitors Center

So, we began at Barton Warnock asking questions about Closed Canyon.  By the time we got there, mid-afternoon, it was about 105 degrees (it was August!). The folks there were very helpful, providing all the details we needed.  As it turned out, they said Closed Canyon was a relatively easy hike and we'd get some shade because of the high walls and narrow slot canyon.  The Ranger mentioned not hiking too far in and paying attention to what you climbed over, under or through.  Many formations and boulders were not easy to climb when coming back; so he said we would not be getting to the Rio Grande River on the hike.

And I got to buy a state park T-shirt and support Texas State Parks!!

Closed Canyon trailhead marker

The parks trailhead marker sign provided much-needed safety information everyone should take in before hiking the trail and mentions being aware of drop-offs that become 'too great to safely negotiate'.  Point taken!

Heading into Closed Canyon

The hike began in the dry creek bed leading in.  We began to realize it was much cooler and windier in the canyon.  The air began to travel faster and cooled as it was compressed, forced through the slot.

The path curved to the left as you enter the high-walled slot canyon. Small creek rock and black dirt covered a hard but smooth canyon floor. 

The canyon was rather wide as we started with variations in the color and texture of the rock, smoother on the lower parts of the walls and rougher up higher where the water had not affected it as much.  

Looking into the canyon as we walked you could see how the water traveled through it, smothing it over millions of years, carrying sand and rock with it.  

With cliffs and caves above us, the slot canyon began to narrow, becoming even more smooth-walled along the way; large boulders were exposed as the canyon narrowed. 

Each left and right we took through the canyon gave us a new view around the corner with something unexpected and different ahead.  

We began to do more boulder climbing to continue on through the narrowing slot. 

Eventually, the flat ground disappeared, and all we had was boulders to climb to continue the hike.

At about .87 mile, we came to a drop-off of about 12 feet that we could tell we'd not be able to climb out of on the way back.  

We both tried and could have gotten past the standing water tinaja but getting back up the rock seemed like 'too great to safely negotiate'.  

With the smoothed rock walls and about 8 feet apart, we would not have been able to push against both walls, like a bridge, hands on one side, feet on the other, to get across both ways.  This is a technique we've seen (on youtube) to get past the point where we had to stop at Ernst Tinaja!! 

It was tempting to consider just dropping into the water and continuing the hike, but climbing up and out would have been very difficult or impossible for both of us.  We do need to practice 'bridging' for next time!! 

So we hiked out, happy as clams that we got as far as we did! 

Here's my short video of the hike out

 

On the way back, we spent some time exploring and taking photos of FM 170.  

Here's a panorama photo taken from Fandango Dome Rock, a high point on the road, looking toward Presidio.  

And another looking toward Big Bend National Park with the Rio Grande's green path in the lower right.  

Here are our related posts!

Kayaking in Big Bend Ranch State Park, passing below Fandango Dome Rock.

Hiking into Ernst Tinaja, were we got stuck at the big hanging rock.

And here are our all our videos and photos from this hike in our Google Photo Album.

Meeting new friends, accidentally

My former High School band director, Mr. Banda, had been urging me to meet another one of his students that lives near Big Bend National park in Terlingua, Tx. while we're here.  Melissa is a school teacher there.  Mr. Banda sent several messages, to both of us and in 5 months we had not managed to meet up in Big Bend NP or Terlingua.

So each time I'm driving through Terlingua or shopping there, I have not called or messaged her and I feel bad about it but just go on thinking she'll not have the time to just meet us at the store or a restaurant. It's always an impromptu visit.  That day we had traveled through Terlingua to Lajita, then to the state park.  And the same thoughts had run through my mind.

Starlight Theater Bar

So, after hiking Closed Cayon in the Big Bend Ranch State Park we went to Starlight theater for dinner.  We walk up to the bar and, strangely, there were 2 spots next to each other so we sit down, order drinks and chips (it's happy hour) and start to relax.  There is a woman sitting next to us drinking her water and she looks familiar, but I'm not sure why.  So, I guess that she might be the Melissa that Mr. Banda had mentioned multiple times.  Hey, we're in a tiny ghost town so..

Automatically, I'm going to Facebook, trying to look at common friends with Banda while she and I have a casual conversation about our hike in the state park.  She talks about Terlingua and why she's there.  I'm not quite to the common friends yet when she mentions she's a teacher there and, I say 'do you know a Mr. Banda?'

Accidental friends

Well, of course, she did; we laughed at the coincidence and the many times we had both thought about the other while passing through.  Anyway, it was great to finally meet Melissa, and now we can let Mr. Banda know we've met, thanks to his generous prodding!

Ernst Tinaja and the Dead horse Mountains

Ernst Tinaja, a series of rock watering holes, is reached by hiking up a half-mile into the amazing Boquillas formation created 90 million years ago. The difficult part is getting there.  The Tinaja (Spanish for "large earthen jar") is accessed from Old Ore Road, which is a 27.5-mile backcountry road in Big Bend National park connecting the RGV (Rio Grande Village) area to HWY 385, the park entry road coming in from Marathon.

And while we believe 'The Green Monster', our 1500 RAM, is the best truck in the world, it is not a 4x4 vehicle, however, since it IS a monster we decided we'd try the road anyway to see the tinajas.

We began our trip from the southern end of Old Ore road, so the side road to the Ernst Tinaja camping area was about 5 miles down that road. Along the way, we had amazing views of the Chisos Mountains as the morning began.  We started about 9 a.m. to avoid hiking in the hotter afternoon heat.

Along Old Ore Road you get many beautiful views of the Chisos

Along the way, we passed multiple camping areas, including Candellia, which was named after the very abundant Candellia plant, used to produce fine wax in Mexico

and the grave of Juan de Leon who was murdered at La Noria in 1933 following an argument with Joe Loftin, who was never convicted of the crime. I hope my grave looks this good when I'm put in the ground!!

Anyway, we arrived at the Ernst Tinaja camping parking lot and started our hike.  The weather was wonderfully cool and perfect for the hike.  We immediately started to notice all the water that had collected on the exposed bedrock probably still there from the 2.5 inches of rain RGV had received two-weeks prior.

As you begin the hike, up the wash, you walk on exposed, whitish limestone sheets uplifted and angled over time, each holding a little water full of tadpoles and small creatures.

hiking towards Ernst Tinaja

As noted in Falcon's Big Bend Hiking Guide, continuing up the wash you are walking back in geologic time.  The type of rock changes from large white limestone sheets to thinner and more colorful limestone and shale.  Fossil remnants indicate these beds were originally deposited on the ocean floor 90 million years ago.

entering the tinaja canyon

Walking into the Ernst Tinaja canyon, rocks become even more colorful, layered and more folded while the white limestone base rock that forms the tinaja, known as budda limestone, starts to appear.

Ernst Tinaja

Looking back from where we had hiked in, the shot of Ernst Tinaja shows the deep green color of the water; you can't see the bottom. The water level was higher than what I've seen in other photos probably due to the recent rains. Many references to this tinaja talk about how animals get trapped in its water and drown as the water level drops, with the sides slick with algae preventing them from escaping.

Just past the tinaja the horizontal, layered walls become twisted and pushed into cave-like structures.  Years of sand and rock-filled water traveling through the canyon and high speeds have also changed these formations smoothing the lower rocks like a rock tumbler would.

Smooth white budda limestone formations are abundant.

continuing into the canyon past the tinajas

We continued into the canyon another quarter mile, climbing up, over or under many of the smooth rock formations

eventually, stopping where we didn't have the climbing skills to pass. I call it the big hanging rock!

At the formation where we stopped, there was a bee-filled pool, where they could take a cool a drink.

We hiked back out of the canyon passing many flowering plants with birds fluttering around them.  The tinaja supports a small community of plants and animals all year long, an oasis that allows for life in the typically hot Chihuahuan desert.

Dead horse Mountains pouroff

We decided to continue down Old Ore Road toward 385 which we found out was the more challenging part of the backcountry road, especially for the truck.  To the East, we were blessed with beautiful views of the Dead horse Mountains and high mountain pouroffs along the way.

And to the west, we again had the distant Chisos Mountains to watch for between the undulating McKinney Hills

where we also found remnants of the McKinney ranch.

Along with more beautiful, flowering plants along the road.

Here's our Google Photo Album of all photos from this trip.

Window View Trail, Chisos Mountains, Big Bend National park

The Windows View Trail starts in the Chisos Basin just behind the Basin General store. This hike is considered easy as it is only .3 miles round trip. The trail is also paved making it handicap accessible. 

start of trail

The first plaque you come across is dedicated to Stephen Tyng Mather who led a publicity campaign to promote the creation of a unified federal agency to oversee National Park Administration, which was established in 1916. In 1917, Mather was appointed as the first director of the National Park Service. He served until 1929, during his tenure Mather created a professional civil service organization, increased the numbers of parks and national monuments, and established systematic criteria for adding new properties to the federal system.

Stephen Tyng Mather

The Windows View Trail is relatively short compared to the many Basin trails that can be started from it. 

Once you get to the center of the trail you can read about the Volcanic origin of the Chisos mountains around you and also use the marker to help put a name to each of them.

Once you have read about them you can take as much time as you like to just sit and be with the area.

 The view is amazing and you can hear so many different things if you just take the time to slow down and enjoy. 

Here's our Google Photo Album of this hike. 

Visiting Viviana before her Deployment to Germany

Living on the road I don't get to see my family as much as I would like, so when the opportunity came up to see my little sister before her deployment I had to take it. Since Bert and I work the same schedule he was unable to travel with me.

I looked into flying but it was going to be $300+ round trip and Bert would have to drive me 3 hours to the airport and 3 hours back home. Greyhound was going to be about $150 round trip but last time I took Greyhound I got extremely sick so that was a no go. Only other option was the train for $110, I had never been on the train so I thought this might be a fun trip to try it out, even if it was going to be a 14 hr ride. At least it was all overnight so I could sleep most of the time. 

The plan was to leave on Thursday and return on Tuesday. After discussing it with Bert  I was only working a half day on Thursday and already had the beginning of the week off. I looked for a earlier train and was able to leave on Monday and return the following Tuesday giving me a full week with family.  

While in Austin I was able to hang out with all of my siblings, something that does not happen very often. My mother made some amazing home cooked meals and I was able to just be with my family. We watched movies, painted and just sat around talking a lot.  

The VFW my family belongs to held a Deployment party for my lil sister. All of my siblings showed up and a group of Soldiers stationed with Viviana came to celebrate with us as well. We ate and drank and had a blast. 

Hope you enjoy the video I made of the time with my family.

Thanks to Prime Day discounts we now own an Instant Pot.

So after 2 years of living in the RV, we decided that we would try using an Instant Pot to make some of the things we eat regularly a little quicker. We knew going into this that we wanted to get the 3qt over the 6qt because we did not want something that big on the counter.  Here's our affiliate link:

Instant Pot Duo Mini 3 Qt 7-in-1 Multi- Use Programmable Pressure Cooker, Slow Cooker, Rice Cooker, Steamer, Sauté, Yogurt Maker and Warmer

From looking at the recipes they can be kind of confusing on what is needed and when it goes into the pot. So far we have made Beans, Rice, Red lentils and Ratatouille with great success. I'm looking forward to making French toast casserole.  

Cooking with Your Instant Pot Mini: 100 Quick & Easy Recipes for 3-Quart Models

The Instant Pot does not come with its own pot cover so you will need something to cover it if you plan on taking out the interior cooking pot and placing it in the fridge. 

Instant Pot Tempered Glass Lid, Clear – 7.6 in, Mini 3 Quart

If you have any questions or ideas on things we should make, drop us a message in the comment section. 

Note: This post contains affiliate links to Amazon products.  As Amazon Associates, we may earn a small commission at no cost to you on qualifying purchases.  

Still Happy two years later in our Airstream - the two-year experiment is complete

New Experiences living the RV Life 

It was two years ago last month, July 23rd, 2016 to be exact, that we picked up our new Airstream in Tampa Florida.  With two years to experience the RV lifestyle on the road and living out decisions made before and after that date, we are both very happy we decided to do this and we are exactly where we want to be.

The trip back from Tampa, our Maiden Voyage, our first time to pull a large trailer, was an experience in itself.  We began learning what living in an RV would be like, how it would permanently change our lives and cause new and exciting adventures in our lives every day.

A Comfortable and Happy Life 

We approach life as if every moment is a lesson, an opportunity to learn.  And we have learned that we can be comfortable and happy living in the Airstream.  It was definitely not like that at the beginning.  Over these two years, we've learned that a propane detector going off at night is not an emergency; it means we check the propane appliances (stove & refrigerator) for problems and leaks, and then turn on the exhaust fans and reset the detector.

There are innumerable small issues with RVs that come up and you learn to solve them yourself or you go to an expert to get them resolved.  They are all problems that can be dealt with and very few are life-threatening emergencies like they seemed at the beginning.

In 2016 when I retired, we had a 2-year plan, an agreement, to try out RV life.  We bought a trailer that we believed would keep its value for the long-term.  The 2-year experiment is complete and was a success.  We're continuing with the RV life and expect to do this for the long-term.

Looking back at our dream

Some of what we've learned 

Things happen even with a brand-new RV

'Airstreaming' I believe is similar and different from traveling in any trailer.  How would we know?  I'm just guessing, but one thing I do know is that Airstream trailers come with a 2-year warranty.  That warranty is really important; luckily we got most of our out-of-the-factory issues corrected in the 1st year. In the second year, we've used the warranty on smaller issues that we could resolve but needed a part or assistance from Airstream.

Many people may think a new trailer would come off the factory floor perfect, without flaws, and trouble-free (for a while at least).  That is simply not true, even for an Airstream, or a 2-million dollar class A motorhome.  I've heard story upon story about every version of RV and their (major and minor) problems the first year.  We had ours too, and I could list them, so everyone would really appreciate the work it took the first year, but I won't.  The point is we have them fixed, and that was the focus of all that work.  Get your RV working and continue on your adventure.

Schedule as little as you can, keep it flexible

It's obvious, I think, that as we travel we want to take advantage of where we are and where we want to be, right.  When we are working and on a tight schedule, we plan a trip end-to-end,; we book hotels, RV parks, and events and we go do that.  Great trip but not a lot of flexibility built-in.

We'll the new point-of-view now for me is not to do ANY OF THAT.  Flexibility/agility during a trip is key to taking advantage of what's in front of you and what you come upon next.  So, as we relocate ourselves, we don't plan much, leaving the agenda completely open.  If we plan to visit a park we'll go in the first day and check things out, hit the visitors center and THEN plan the next day. It may be that there's not a lot to do in that particular park at the time (like we though while visiting Mesa Verde NP in 2020).  As it happens, the more you explore the more you find in front of you that is also interesting.  So, plan as little as possible to get in the most impact.  In Mesa Verde, it turned out that even though the ranger-led hikes into the Cliff Dwellings were not operating when we were there in February, we still found a week's worth of valuable and exciting things to do in that park.

Slow and easy vs. fast-paced is a no-brainer

Similar to the above point, when we get to a location we plan to stay for a while. Since we want to get the most out of our visit we usually don't plan an end date.  We stay as long as needed and leave when ready for the next adventure.

A system the Living in Beauty blog talks about is the 4-3-2 rule!   That is: drive no more than 4 hours, stop by 3 pm and stay for 2 weeks.

Expand your horizons as you travel

The idea is that we try different types of stays, including boondocking, state/national park campgrounds, using private parks, Harvest Host wineries, and moochdocking at Walmarts and Cabelas.  We have RV friends, for example, Xscapers, that like to boondock all the time.  They love that experience of being in the desert on solar.  Other's we met, like some Escapees, like to stay in RV parks all the time.

We've found that changing things up from time-to-time can really make full-time RV living work and keep us happy.  Hey, we've even looked at the beautiful Fort Wilderness park at Disney World in Florida as a place to say.  That experience would be wonderful and (finally) get Lupe to Disney World so he stops complaining :)

Working together (at paid or volunteer jobs) will grow your relationship

We CAN work together at a real job, we hadn't done this before and have learned so much about each other and our relationship by doing this at Big Bend.  After a few weeks of figuring out who is in charge (no one as it turns out), Lupe and I have settled into our jobs and understand each other just a little bit better.

What we're doing now and why it works

We are currently in Big Bend National Park working for Forever Resorts.  As I'll post in the future I bet, this will be one of the best experiences we've ever had.  Not only have we learned more about each other with our relationship growing by leaps and bounds, but also we have learned that we can do things that we never thought we could.

I didn't think I would ever do retail in my life.  But, I've learned the price of EVERY ITEM in our store at Rio Grande Village, and I found I love working with people and making their park experience a great one.

Of course, this works because we are willing to make it work.  We had no idea what this job would be like, or what we would face during the job, but we were willing to try it and work as hard as we could to make it work.  So, to me that is a work ethic and why we can workcamp now and in the future.  We can get through almost anything if we are committed to the job.

even when it's 94 inside and 113 outside, in the shade

Bert