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Wednesday, August 22, 2018

Ernst Tinaja and the Dead horse Mountains

Ernst Tinaja, a series of rock watering holes, is reached by hiking up a half-mile into the amazing Boquillas formation created 90 million years ago. The difficult part is getting there.  The Tinaja (Spanish for "large earthen jar") is accessed from Old Ore Road, which is a 27.5-mile backcountry road in Big Bend National park connecting the RGV (Rio Grande Village) area to HWY 385, the park entry road coming in from Marathon.


And while we believe 'The Green Monster', our 1500 RAM, is the best truck in the world, it is not a 4x4 vehicle, however, since it IS a monster we decided we'd try the road anyway to see the tinajas.


We began our trip from the southern end of Old Ore road, so the side road to the Ernst Tinaja camping area was about 5 miles down that road. Along the way, we had amazing views of the Chisos Mountains as the morning began.  We started about 9 a.m. to avoid hiking in the hotter afternoon heat.

Along Old Ore Road you get many beautiful views of the Chisos


Along the way, we passed multiple camping areas, including Candellia, which was named after the very abundant Candellia plant, used to produce fine wax in Mexico


and the grave of Juan de Leon who was murdered at La Noria in 1933 following an argument with Joe Loftin, who was never convicted of the crime. I hope my grave looks this good when I'm put in the ground!!


Anyway, we arrived at the Ernst Tinaja camping parking lot and started our hike.  The weather was wonderfully cool and perfect for the hike.  We immediately started to notice all the water that had collected on the exposed bedrock probably still there from the 2.5 inches of rain RGV had received two-weeks prior.


As you begin the hike, up the wash, you walk on exposed, whitish limestone sheets uplifted and angled over time, each holding a little water full of tadpoles and small creatures.

hiking towards Ernst Tinaja
As noted in Falcon's Big Bend Hiking Guide, continuing up the wash you are walking back in geologic time.  The type of rock changes from large white limestone sheets to thinner and more colorful limestone and shale.  Fossil remnants indicate these beds were originally deposited on the ocean floor 90 million years ago.

entering the tinaja canyon

Walking into the Ernst Tinaja canyon, rocks become even more colorful, layered and more folded while the white limestone base rock that forms the tinaja, known as budda limestone, starts to appear.

Ernst Tinaja

Looking back from where we had hiked in, the shot of Ernst Tinaja shows the deep green color of the water; you can't see the bottom. The water level was higher than what I've seen in other photos probably due to the recent rains. Many references to this tinaja talk about how animals get trapped in its water and drown as the water level drops, with the sides slick with algae preventing them from escaping.



Just past the tinaja the horizontal, layered walls become twisted and pushed into cave-like structures.  Years of sand and rock-filled water traveling through the canyon and high speeds have also changed these formations smoothing the lower rocks like a rock tumbler would.

Smooth white budda limestone formations are abundant.

continuing into the canyon past the tinajas

We continued into the canyon another quarter mile, climbing up, over or under many of the smooth rock formations



eventually, stopping where we didn't have the climbing skills to pass. I call it the big hanging rock!


At the formation where we stopped, there was a bee-filled pool, where they could take a cool a drink.


We hiked back out of the canyon passing many flowering plants with birds fluttering around them.  The tinaja supports a small community of plants and animals all year long, an oasis that allows for life in the typically hot Chihuahuan desert.

Dead horse Mountains pouroff

We decided to continue down Old Ore Road toward 385 which we found out was the more challenging part of the backcountry road, especially for the truck.  To the East, we were blessed with beautiful views of the Dead horse Mountains and high mountain pouroffs along the way.


And to the west, we again had the distant Chisos Mountains to watch for between the undulating McKinney Hills


where we also found remnants of the McKinney ranch.


Along with more beautiful, flowering plants along the road.


Here's our Google Photo Album of all photos from this trip.

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